If you have been in the curly hair world for any length of time, you have heard about curl type. But there is another property of your hair that arguably matters more for your daily routine: hair porosity. Understanding your porosity is the key to choosing products that actually work — and the reason why two people with identical curl types can need completely different routines.
What is Hair Porosity?
Hair porosity refers to how easily your hair absorbs and retains moisture. It is determined by the condition of your hair’s cuticle — the outer layer of overlapping scales that protects each strand. There are three porosity levels:
- Low porosity — the cuticle lies very flat and tightly compact; moisture struggles to enter the hair shaft
- Medium (normal) porosity — the cuticle allows moisture in and holds it reasonably well; the most balanced porosity level
- High porosity — the cuticle is raised or has gaps (from damage or genetics); moisture enters easily but also escapes quickly
How to Test Your Hair Porosity
The float test: place a clean, dry strand of hair in a glass of room-temperature water and wait 2–4 minutes. If it floats, your porosity is likely low. If it sinks to the middle, it is medium. If it sinks quickly to the bottom, it is high. This is not 100% scientific, but it is a useful starting indicator.
A more reliable assessment involves observing how your hair behaves: does it take forever to get wet in the shower? Does it dry extremely slowly? Low porosity. Does it absorb product quickly but feel dry again within hours? High porosity.
Low Porosity Curly Hair
Low porosity curly hair is often misidentified as dry hair — because product tends to sit on top rather than absorbing. Key characteristics:
- Hair takes a long time to get wet
- Products ball up or pill on the hair
- Hair takes forever to dry
- Can feel weighed down easily
What works for low porosity: heat opens the cuticle and allows moisture in. Deep condition with heat (shower cap + warm towel or hair dryer on low), use lighter products, apply products to hair that is warm (diffuse partway then add product, or deep condition in the shower). Avoid heavy oils and butters.
High Porosity Curly Hair
High porosity can be genetic or caused by damage (bleach, heat, chemical processing). Hair absorbs moisture readily but cannot hold it. Characteristics:
- Hair dries very quickly
- Absorbs product instantly but feels dry again soon after
- Prone to frizz even with products applied
- Often feels rough or tangles easily
What works for high porosity: sealing moisture in with oils and creams after your water-based leave-in, protein treatments to fill gaps in the cuticle, cold water rinses to help close the cuticle after conditioning, and richer, heavier products overall.
Why Porosity Matters More Than Curl Type for Product Selection
Your curl type tells you about the shape of your hair. Your porosity tells you about how it behaves. Two clients with 3A curls — one with low porosity, one with high — need almost entirely different product routines. This is why generic product recommendations based on curl type alone often fail. A specialist assessment that includes porosity testing gives you recommendations you can actually rely on.
Get a Porosity Assessment at Hair Love Artistry, Buderim
At every Hair Love Artistry appointment, Danielle assesses both curl type and porosity before making any product or routine recommendations. Shop 4, 5-9 Lakeshore Ave, Buderim. Book here.
FAQs
Can porosity change over time?
Yes. Chemical treatments, heat damage, and even hormonal changes (including postpartum) can raise porosity. Hair that was once low porosity can become high porosity after bleaching, for example.
Is high porosity bad?
No — it just requires a different routine. Many people with high porosity hair have beautiful, defined curls once they switch to a sealing-focused routine. It is not a flaw; it is just information about what your hair needs.